Dia 112 - Thursday March 31, 2011: Valparaiso

We are still overcoming jet lag so had a leisurely start to Valparaiso about 75 miles away. We had no trouble finding our way – it is almost a treat to have adequate maps and signage. The countryside continues to be so like the California wine and agricultural areas.

We had a lovely lunch at Bota de Salvado at the Valparaiso harbor. The conger eel was especially delicious. We then went to the Neruda house – Neruda won the Nobel peace prize with Pablo Picasso in the ‘50s and the Nobel Prize for his poetry in 1971. I found the history of the left and Neruda’s politics most enlightening. The unimpeded view of Valparaiso from the house was spectacular.

We also spent time at the open-air museum of wall art. Basically, taggers were honored and encouraged to be artistic. We ought to do this in LA.

We paid a visit on Patricio & Alice, classmates of Julia & Justin.

Dia 111 - Wednesday March 30, 2011: Artesnal Market & Montes Winery

Good street maps of Santiago & Chile, as well as adequate street signage empowered us to tackle the urban roads of Chile. We visited the Centro Artisnal Los Dominicos and made a few purchases. Then we drove about 100 miles south to Santa Cruz and Montes Winery. The scenery on the drive felt like California—the gold country, central valley and Napa. The area generally looked prosperous.

Chilean Bodega Montes was a treat. The vineyard produces Montes’ premium grapes. We were driven up the hillside to view the gorgeous valley. The winery is ultramodern and immaculate, with no expense spared in its execution. See the pictures. Of interest is the attention paid to not disturbing the grapes and liquids, and avoiding exposure to oxygen. Gravity is used to ingeniously transfer the product from one vessel to another. The tasting started with Montes’ regular Sauvignon Blanc and moved to 3 premium red varieties. We purchased several ultra-premium bottles, which were not sampled. A good time was had by all.

Dias 109 & 110: Resumption of Latin America Road Trip

The 4 weeks we spent back home were terrific. There really is no place like home & the good life. We are re-energized and making the turn.

The flight left LAX at 1:45 PM Monday and we arrived in Santiago at 6:35 AM, Tuesday. There is a 4-hour time difference now so we are a bit jet lagged. It interesting to see the sun rise from the northeast and arc across the sky from the north at midday. The night sky in the Southern Hemisphere is totally different.

We picked up the car, ran several errands (local currency, maps & gas) and had time to enjoy lunch at Galeon Restaurant (the larger of the 2 Galeons is better), as well as visiting the museum of Pre-Columbian archaeology. It was a refresher on the Mesoamerican and Andean cultures (a treat) as well as more remote cultures. There were several vibrant civilizations when Columbus came.

We took a well-deserved nap in the afternoon.

Day 106: Interruption of Adventure

The need to have the drive shaft shipped from Germany to Santiago means that it would take at least 10 days with air express (with risk) and some 3 weeks the regular import channels. Carol & I decided that the most prudent course is to give the dealer a month and to return to LA until it is ready. We are planning to be dropped off at the Santiago airport on Wednesday after we visit Valparaiso.

We visited the Central Market and had a fabulous seafood lunch, including abalone, angulas, pulpo, calamari, ceviche, scallops, etc. We just couldn’t finish everything even though it was so delicious. We visited the Cathedral and various places around the Plaza de Armas. Santiago is a very livable city. We are now back at the hotel tying up loose ends. We had dinner at a fine Italian restaurant across the street.

We are looking forward to playing golf tomorrow and to visit the Archaeology Museum. We take off for LA on Wednesday morning. Valparaiso has to await the return trip.

Day 105: Golf in Santiago

We relocated from the Grand Hyatt to the Happy House Hostal in the morning and then to golf at Las Brisas, a mountain desert course.

Hotels: The Grand Hyatt is like any other business oriented high-rise – internal atrium hotel. I spent 40 years staying at places like this for business and so I felt like being thrown back to the hermetically sealed past. The service and security people in dark suits and earphones just give me the creeps. Carol found it to be an excellent place to rest up from Bolivia. The view of the Andes is spectacular, the food is first rate, the beds comfortable and the bathrooms intelligently equipped. The plumbing was great. There was access to a good mall to replace broken and missing items—and follow her daughters’ wishes that she finally get haircare. Another day would have been welcome. That said, the $22/day pricing for Internet and laundry was offensive. We prefer the illusion of gracious service.

Happy House Hostal on the other hand, is a bit low scale for me, although it has a lot of charm and a more relaxed atmosphere. It is really a hostal, not a B&B. They offer solid basic services, a lovely back garden, and a good-natured staff. HHH is in a fine old building with ceiling moldings and hard wood floors, but it needs refurbishment. The public areas are very nice in the manner of a French fifties-style, nineties update. The central town neighborhood has trash on the streets and homeless people sleeping outside, but is gentrifying rapidly. There are at least two wonderful but still shabby art nouveau buildings across the street from the hostal. We will look for more.

We ate at the old Chinese restaurant on the square a few blocks away and were able to get a flavorful meal of fish and vegetables, which revived our spirits.

If we stay in Santiago much longer, we will look for more comfortable accommodations.

We really enjoyed the golf. It was like playing in Palm Springs or Scottsdale. Thank you Pato and Jorge Simms for arranging it.

Day 104: Santiago

Justin & I went to the Cayenne drop off at the drag strip at the outskirts of Santiago. It was further flat bedded to the Porsche garage. The repair shop was very close to Pato & Alice’s house. They were classmates of Justin & Julia's at Anderson. They had just brought their new baby home from the hospital this morning. They received us graciously and we all were happy for the visit.

We were relieved that the car was finally at the repair shop. Pato kindly made all sorts of arrangements for both the car and golf. Justin was take charge through the final drop off. Later, it was goodbye to Justin as he returns from his adventure

Tomorrow, Carol & I relocate to Happy Home Hostal in the center of the City and have a round of golf. We attend to the car repair on Monday; golf on Tuesday; and a seaside tour on Wednesday.

Day 103: Positioning in Santiago, Chile

If we have to spend 6-14 days anywhere in Chile, Santiago is the place. We are in the modern part of the City for a couple of days at the Hyatt with a fantastic view of the Andes. It is corporate with all the services for coordination with the Porsche drop off. Sunday we move to a 19C B&B.

Dinner at the Thai restaurant at the Hyatt consisted of several delicious preparations of South American King Crab. Dungeness crab is more delicious – Hail Oxnard Sea Food Pound.

We prepared for Justin’s return to LA tomorrow.