Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Day 105: Golf in Santiago

We relocated from the Grand Hyatt to the Happy House Hostal in the morning and then to golf at Las Brisas, a mountain desert course.

Hotels: The Grand Hyatt is like any other business oriented high-rise – internal atrium hotel. I spent 40 years staying at places like this for business and so I felt like being thrown back to the hermetically sealed past. The service and security people in dark suits and earphones just give me the creeps. Carol found it to be an excellent place to rest up from Bolivia. The view of the Andes is spectacular, the food is first rate, the beds comfortable and the bathrooms intelligently equipped. The plumbing was great. There was access to a good mall to replace broken and missing items—and follow her daughters’ wishes that she finally get haircare. Another day would have been welcome. That said, the $22/day pricing for Internet and laundry was offensive. We prefer the illusion of gracious service.

Happy House Hostal on the other hand, is a bit low scale for me, although it has a lot of charm and a more relaxed atmosphere. It is really a hostal, not a B&B. They offer solid basic services, a lovely back garden, and a good-natured staff. HHH is in a fine old building with ceiling moldings and hard wood floors, but it needs refurbishment. The public areas are very nice in the manner of a French fifties-style, nineties update. The central town neighborhood has trash on the streets and homeless people sleeping outside, but is gentrifying rapidly. There are at least two wonderful but still shabby art nouveau buildings across the street from the hostal. We will look for more.

We ate at the old Chinese restaurant on the square a few blocks away and were able to get a flavorful meal of fish and vegetables, which revived our spirits.

If we stay in Santiago much longer, we will look for more comfortable accommodations.

We really enjoyed the golf. It was like playing in Palm Springs or Scottsdale. Thank you Pato and Jorge Simms for arranging it.

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