Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Day 61: Ipiales, CO to Otavalo, Ecuador - Friday January 7, 2011

This morning, Friday, January 7th, was market day in Ipiales. The local produce was mostly brought in on horse drawn carts. It was a small market and everyone seemed a little slower after the late night “end of Blanco Y Negro Carnival” revelry. We missed our chance at cuy last night because the restaurants were mostly closed. We took refuge in a small corner restaurant that served tasty corriente “regular” food: Roast chicken, costillos (ribs), chicharones, large Colombian beans, rice & salad.

The frontier was only 15 minutes away. We were pleasantly surprised how much more efficient and quick the border crossing was compared to Central America and no one wanted money. It took about an hour, most of which was spent in line to get our passports stamped by Ecuadorian immigration.

Driving the Andes is a thrill -- not for the faint of heart. The Ecuadorian roads have been good so far. The mountains are very high and steep, and the cliffs and ravines are acro-phobic. Having 450 horses under the Cayenne’s hood makes passing easier in the snaking mountain roads and short passing opportunities -- Frequent white knuckles for the passenger though! The scenery was dramatic enough for me to drive a slow 70% to better enjoy the vistas. (Anisa: the fast drivers passed me.)

Our hotel for the next 3 nights, Hacienda Cusin, is a charming 1602 hacienda with a notable restaurant. The adobe walls make the interior of our elegant folkloric suite colder than the outside. We have a fire blazing in the fireplace and are getting hot water bottles to take to bed with us.

Navigation note: We have accepted that one gets to the vicinity of the target location and then to ask for directions from the locals. Also, when in doubt on the highway, we stop and ask someone if we are on the correct road. The people are friendly and helpful. Our electronic tools are not yet up to the task. Today, we asked for confirmation that we were heading for the Panamerican Hwy in Ipiales, getting out of the border in Ecuador, and near the hotel.

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